September 1st, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 38
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I had a sad and happy day today. Yesterday after posting my daily blog, an old friend called to tell me that they had just booked his brother into the "Kaplan House". The Kaplan House is where you go to die. It is specifically designed and maintained for the absolute end of life...once you enter the Kaplan House, you don't come out the same.

My friend has Liver cancer. He's at the end of the journey here on earth.

However, he is ready for the next journey. It's just hard on those he's leaving behind.
That's always the case. Those loved ones who don't want to separate are always the ones to suffer. My friend who is dying is a Vietnam Veteran. Tony saw his share of combat in Nam. He's had a good life. Though, being 60 years old hardly seems like a full life. But I guess compared to others who have had their lives cut short...like Molly, it seems like my buddy has had a lifetime worth of memories.

Have a nice journey Tony, I'll see you on the next world.

OK so the happy part of this blog? I surfed in just my trunks today. No wetsuit. No rashguard. Just skin on wax. First time this year. And it's September! I swear if the wind was not on it, I would of stayed out for another hour or two, and not been cold.
I chuckled at those in 3mil suits today. Hell, I paddled by one guy in a hooded 4/3...no his hood was not on, but a 4/3? Today? Dude you had to be burning in that thing.
I saluted my buddy Jon Gozzo who was standing on the beach in his trunks. He had just come out of the water. A few waves later, I saluted Molly.

And my last salute? Well, that one was for my friend Tony.

So Hurricane "EARL" is knocking on our door for the weekend. And there are a few more storms stacked up and heading this way. "GASTON" looks promising. Man all of a sudden the Cane Season is in full bloom! You gotta love this if you're a surfer. And that my friends, is exactly what I am...I'm a surfer.

That's 38, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 2nd, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 39
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

So Hurricane "EARL" really is coming huh? I saw several News Helicopters buzzing over the beach today. It's so funny how they all think that the surf today was from EARL, when in fact, it's the remnants of Danielle. Oh I have no doubt whatsoever that EARL will be bringing some serious surf. Of that, I am certain. But the small waist high surf today? Sorry News hounds, that's leftovers from our lovely Danielle.

EARL could be a problem for those of you who live out on the Islands and Cape Cod. I just saw a Weather report that has EARL going right over the Cape. I mean DIRECTLY over. In another bit of information, this is the 3rd strongest Hurricane to make it this far North, since they started tracking these beasts. That's impressive.

EARL is a CAT 4...he'll be a CAT 2 when he runs over the Cape.

So be aware this weekend. Talking to mostly those of you who don't surf. And for those of you who do...be courteous out there. You just had over a week of warm up surf with Danielle. You should all be ready for EARL.

This is going to be an interesting weekend for sure.

I trunked it again this morning. No wetsuit. No rash guard. If the surf was good, I would of hung around longer. But it was just marginal. Still, I caught a dozen or so waves. I snapped off a salute and left the tropical conditions. It just does not get any warmer around these parts...oh I'm gonna miss days like today in a few months.


That's 39, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 3rd, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 40
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Last night I listened to my nephew QWILL on 92.5 The River in Boston. His song sounded so good. I am not saying this because he's my nephew, I'm saying this because, I am a musician, and I know good music when I hear it. If you have not heard QWILL, you would be doing yourself a favor, and anyone else you are with to give him a listen. Trust me, you will not be disappointed. Qwill is the Real Deal.

Now back to my Catch A Wave For Molly.

One of the little things I've noticed recently, when I'm leaving the ocean each day, is how I've turned into a semi beach scavenger. No, I'm not looking for lost coins, or jewelry, but rather at nature's gifts. Today, I found a perfectly round white stone. It was sitting in the sand looking up at me. I was talking Lenny Nichols about the joy of surfing with our kids, when I spotted it. Last week, I found a perfect shark fin rock. It was a brownish, sand stone in color. Really a neat looking stone. It sits on my desk now. The little Round White Rock is in my vehicle.

10 years ago, I collected driftwood. In fact, my office driveway is bordered by these large pieces of driftwood. There have been times as of late when I would see a large piece wedged into the rocks at the wall or other spots and looked to see if any of my friends were present to help me lift them. But I was alone those times.

I suspect, that I will collect more driftwood and cool stones as the year progresses.

So I'm sure most of you are wondering about Hurricane Earl. Well, I was out at 8:00AM this morning and I did meet the first swells of Earl. There were some head high sets coming in. I rode Big Black. I caught a dozen or more waves. It was a nice mellow session. I surfed with a longboarder names Steve. Then another Steve paddled out. Whenever a set came, I'd ask "You going Steve?" they would both answer. "No you take it Ralph..." I love those Steves.

I did trunk it again. Even though the sun was playing peek a boo the whole time I was out. I can't put on a wetsuit when it's this warm. It makes no sense. This is rare for these parts, so I am going to take advantage of the warmest water in years. Plus we've had record high air temps the last week or two. This is Summer Surfing In New England. Ans I am all over it.

Tomorrow will be very interesting. I'll be on it somewhere. Nice to meet you Mr Earl.
That's 40, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 4th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 41
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Look I have no idea what it's like to protect a community against a storm, or in particular, a Hurricane. So I guess it would be wise to be overly cautious as opposed to taking these Hurricanes lightly. But if you were to tune in to any TV or radio station in the last few days, you would of thought that the sky was falling. I mean come on. OK, I know these things are unpredictable, but I've seen bigger messes from our local Nor'easters, not to mention bigger waves. I am not complaining, except the traffic today was insane, with tourists rushing to the ocean to see Hurricane Earl.

Were there big waves? Yes. Was it the biggest ever? Nope. Not even close.

So I think some folks overreacted, as far as the dangers involved. Don't get me wrong, there were some dangerous moments. Like when that beginner got in my way on the Wave Of The Day. That was dangerous in more ways than one. Suffice it say, he was schooled by Professor Ralph on why he had no business being out there. And yes, I did use my big voice. He had only been surfing 4 times. And he's out in 6-8' Hurricane Surf? I'm sorry my friend, but you were in way over your head.

Today was special though. I got to surf with my son Max who was home for the day getting some Earl surf. And before anyone thinks I did not enjoy surfing and shooting Earl, that is simply not true. It was a great swell. The water was warm, and the surf was perfect. It was a great day of waves. For all of us.

Except the guy who got in my way.

Here's some photos from today...enjoy the small sampling of visuals. There will be many more posted on my weekly blog on Sunday night and Monday. But for now here's a sample of what to expect.

Hurricane Earl meets Mackey V at the Wall. Sept. 4th-2010 Photo by RALPH.

Hurricane Earl meets Johnny Norris. Sept. 4th-2010 Photo by RALPH.

That's 41, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


September 5th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 42
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was a bitter sweet day for me personally. The annual Surf Family Robinson Beach Party. It was on this day 3 years ago, when I first got to really know Molly. This time of year and this day in particular will always be associated with Molly. And not just for me. For Molly's parents and little brother and all of her friends. We had about 150 members of the surf community present today, to share in the surf and fun on the beach. It was great. I mentioned to the kids and their parents about this Fund Raiser and I had them all yell MOLLY really loud. And they did.

And then something else happened.

The kids started to chant Molly's name in a true spontaneous reaction. And it went on for quite a while. I mean it just kept rolling. I'm sure it touched the souls of everyone. Lord knows it got to me. Then we all got into the spirit of the day. And the day was filled with laughter and activities.

Pirate Jonas showed up, and once I again I battled the Crusty old Pirate and damn near got killed. We went on the Big Treasure hunt and it was a fitting end to a fun day.
It was hard to believe that this was 19 years of doing this. All I know is next year it's going to be 3 times as big. .

Here's some pics from today.

After the party we broke down and I went and caught my wave for Molly. It was freaking Freezing. So much for the tropics. That west wind brought the water temps down. There was not much left of Earl...still, I mangaed to get one at 10th Street at 6:30PM and saluted Lil Miss Molly and then I called it a day.

That's 42, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 6th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 43
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I must be getting old. Surf Family Robinson kicked my butt. I am so tired from yesterday. There was a time in my life when I could surf and fight Pirates all day long. Oh well. I just got back from my daily wave. The water is still cold. The surf is weak. No sign of Earl. Still, I was able to get my wave. Al beit, it took me two attempts.
There were some local beach goers hanging out on the beach watching me.

"I thought you went out in the morning..." one asked me.

I had to explain my simple rules. "I have to catch at least one wave, every day, and ride the length of my surfboard." I had Big Black with me, which is 9' . The first wave might of been a 9 foot ride, but I could not be sure, so I went back out. The second ride was clearly a 9 foot ride. Heck it was at least 12 feet.

I saluted, stepped off my board, waved to my friends and headed home. My hair was completely dry. I heard them yell..."We are witnesses!" I smiled and said "God is my witness, especially in January and February..." And as I walked up the stairs I said under my breath..."And so is Molly and my mother, and my best friend Joe, as well as Linda and a host of others who have since passed on...all my angels"

That's 43, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 7th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 44
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I walked by a gathering of beach moms today as I ambled down the rocks to get my daily wave. The surf was really small, and the little weak swell had a lot of south in it. It was about knee high. No bigger. I waded out to my waist and saw a bump. I waited for it to get to me and I shoved off, I paddled one or twice and stood up. I went all of 10 to 12 feet and saluted. I stepped off onto the sand. One and done.

The ladies all looked at me as I walked by. "Did I go at least nine feet on that wave?" I asked. "Yes. Absolutely. " They answered. " Good, that's all I needed. " I said as I walked past them. They looked perplexed, and I suppose I could of just walked away, and have them wondering what that was all about. I could of. But I didn't. I told them the story about Molly. And you could see them all light up.

When I walked away this time, I knew they'd be talking about Molly, and what they just heard. They would share this story with their family and friends. And I felt good about this undertaking, and our community here on the seacoast. Life is good.

That's 44, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 8th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 45
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

They say that bad news comes in threes. I'm not sure how true that is with you guys, but in less than 24 hours, I was hit with three pieces of bad news. Last night at 10PM my good friend and fellow Veteran called to tell me, that we just lost another New Hampshire Serviceman in the GWOT. A young 22yr old Marine from Goffstown. Philip Charte. He graduated from High School in 2007. He was a wrestler and he wrestled in the 135lb division. That would of put him in the same weight class as my son in 2007. The kid from Exeter who died a couple of weeks ago in Afghanistan, was also a wrestler.

That's too close too home for me. I watched my son wrestle for four years in High School. To lose two wrestlers, back to back, in the GWOT is scary. Both of their names will be on our monument this coming weekend during our annual September 11th Ceremony. Side by side. One Army. One Marine. Both wrestlers.

This morning my phone rang and it was my childhood friend calling to tell me that his brother passed away an hour earlier. He had cancer. He was Vietnam Veteran. His name was Tony. I mentioned him this summer. Having cancer and battling the disease. I spent the day with him in early August. We talked about everything that day. Our childhood. The war. Our family life, and finally the end of life.

Tony was ready for the next leg of this journey we are all on.

The problem is...his family and friends were not. But Tony is gone. He is in a better place. I know that sounds so cliche, but honestly, that's what I believe. He is in Molly's world now. He's with his mom and dad. His friends and other loved ones.

He is with God.

But wait, didn't I say bad news travels in threes? Yes I did. The phone rang this afternoon and on the other end was my friend John Meehan. He was calling to tell me that our friend Joe Gedritis's dad passed away this morning. Joe's dad was a Pearl Harbor survivor. I used to talk with Joe about that. I only met one other Pearl vet and I was mesmerized by the eye witness accounts of that terrible day.

I would imagine, that future generations will be equally amazed at listening to September 11th, 2001 eye witness accounts. Those days will be here before you know it. But for now. I want to say Rest In Peace to these three new transition souls.

As I pulled up to 10th Street today and stepped out of the Commander, I heard a voice call out from across the street. "One and Done". It was my buddy Adam. I laughed when I saw the surf and said "That's what the plan is today." I got Big Black and walked down the beach. I saw the small wave I wanted, and ran out to meet it. I shoved off, stood up, and saluted all of them. Philip, Tony, Joe, and Molly.

And I was ..."One and Done."

That's 45, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 9th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 46
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

This past Saturday during Hurricane Earl, the surf was a legitimate 6 to 8 feet. This morning at 7:15AM the surf was a legitimate 6 to 8 inches. I actually debated taking the fins off my board. But I saw a little dribble of a wave peeling off one of the sandbars off of 14th Street. I waded out...and saw a solid 8 inch bump and pushed off. I paddled once and felt Big Black move and I hopped right up.

And much to my surprise I went a solid 20 feet. If I were a half back carrying a football I would of had a first down. Clearly enough to count in my daily undertaking. The weather felt like a trace of Fall in the air. The water felt a bit cooler as well.

I know it's all coming...Labor Day is behind us... Summer is basically over. I'm ready.

That's 46, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 10th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 47
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today I felt like one of those Lions out on the plains of Africa. You know, a female Lioness. Searching for food for her cubs. Only I was walking along the shoreline staring at the tiny waves struggling to get to the beach. Like a Lioness sizing up some unsuspecting Wildebeest.

I spotted the calf ( I mean wave) I wanted, and pounced on it!

I grabbed that unsuspecting wave and rode it all of 10 to 12 feet. More than enough to fill my quota and feed my cubs...and then just like that, I was done. Don't look for this sequence on the Discovery Channel. But that's just about how it happened.

On the way back up the beach, I couldn't help but chuckle to myself. Because there
on the sand, were a young Surf couple from Quebec, who were eating their lunch and watching this whole thing unfold. They just started at me as I walked by.

They no doubt were wondering what the hell I was up to. I nodded and smiled.

That's 47, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 11th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 48
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

What can any of us say about today? September 11th. It's still so hard to believe that this happened. 3,000 Americans died on US Soil. September 11th, 2001 was the Day that Evil came to our shores. Or as I call it. The day Cowardice came to our shores. Those 19 Terrorist Hijackers were cowards. Plain and simple. Cowards.

People are fond of comparing September 11th, 2001 with December 7th, 2941.

I Don't. Or at least, I do to a certain point, and then I stop. The biggest difference between the two dates is, on December 7th, 1941 The enemy attacked a Military base. Our Military had the means to fight back . Those Navy ships had guns, and we had planes. Yes it was a sneak attack, but we had a way to fight back. And by God we did. On September 11th, 2001. We had no way to fight back.

Those cowards attacked civilians. Those Radical Islamic Terrorist cowards attacked civilians. There was no fighting back. Although, the civilians on Flight 93 did and it ultimately ruined a big part of their Scary Terrorist plan. Cowards every last one of them. Lowlife cowards...who are rotting in hell as I write this. How are those 72 virgins treating you boys? Losers. Cowards.

And back here in New England we had beautiful surf that day.

The irony of the perfect surf that day, coupled with the horror, is something I will never ever forget. And neither should any of you. Here's pics from that day 9 years ago. And some I shot today.

(Above) September 11, 2001. Video Frame grab by RALPH

(Above) 8:46AM September 11, 2010. Photo by RALPH

(Above) We meet EVERY September 11th. EVERY one. This was shot at 9:03AM September 11, 2010. The exact minute the second plane hit the South Tower.
Left to right: Markey J, Tony and me. Photo by RALPH

(Above) Sans wetsuit...I trunked it today...I saluted Molly, and the souls of all those
lost on this day, nine years ago. September 11, 2010. Photo courtesy of RALPH

Tonight we will pay tribute to the seven Veterans from New Hampshire who have died in the GWOT since last September 11th, 2009. There are currently 49 names on our monument. 49 Brave souls who have died fighting for our freedom since September 11th 2001.

Please say a prayer for their families...

That's 48, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 12th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 49
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Last night was awesome. We had close to 500 people attend our GWOT 9-11
Monument dedication. We added seven new names to our Memorial Monument. The Governor spoke, the National Commander of the American Legion spoke and our keynote speaker was a combat Marine Corps Vet who saw action in both Iraq and Afghanistan. This kid was so badly wounded that the Corps had top medically retire him from active duty. He will be one of the Vets next year at the 4th Annual Wounded Warriors HIT THE BEACH!

The parents of the fallen were there, and they were so grateful and thankful that we did this to honor their sons. I just tell them, " it's the least we can for you. "

The wind was blowing pretty good this morning. There was a touch of Fall in the air as I made my way across the hard packed sandy beach at 14th street. I don't know why I didn't notice it yesterday, but the last two storms have deposited quite a significant amount of sand on our shoreline. The bottoms are always changing at our beaches. Sometimes it's for the better, and other times "not so good."

I guess the surf was starting to build. It was disorganized, but at least thigh high. It was however still pretty warm. And while I trunked it yesterday, I wore the long sleeved shortie. It was the right choice. I missed the first wave I went for. But easily caught the second. And I rode that crumbling left at least 50-75 feet. I saluted and then I stepped off and headed back up the hard packed sand.

I stopped to pick up some more broken glass on my way.

That's 49, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 13th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 50
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

So here we are on Day 50. It's not that big of a deal honestly. I'm looking forward to Day 65. Then I'll have 300 more ahead of me. I don't know why Day 65 stands out as a first milestone. I guess it's just having the 300 Days left that make this undertaking seem more attainable. But for now, this is Day 50.

The surf this morning was actually surfable. It was thigh high and glassy. And it was still very warm. I mean, if there was real surf today, I would of clearly trunked it.
It was that warm. But as it was, I had to get going.

Today was my friend Tony Capozzi' s funeral. He's my buddy that passed away last week after a long battle with cancer. They had his funeral today. So it was one and done for me. Though I have to admit, that wave was a pretty long ride. I had enough for several salutes while riding that one wave. I saluted Molly and I saluted Tony.

At the funeral, I got caught up with some old friends. Tony's sister Linda is battling cancer. She has six months to live. She seemed lost. Cancer has taken her mother and now her brother, and it is taking her. I hate you cancer. I hate what you do to families and friends. I hope someday in the near future they finally find a way to eradicate you from the face of this earth.

I guess there's another storm out in the Tropics. Igor. They say it's headed this way. Maybe by the weekend we'll start to see some swell from ole Igor. We'll see. The funny thing about surfing everyday is, I don't really think about how good the surf might get. I mean, I'm going out no matter what. I just check the tides and the size to determine which board I'm going to ride.

Today was easy. I rode Big Black.

That's 50, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


September 14th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 51
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The surf actually looked fun this morning. I mean compared to the last few days. It was at least thigh high, and it was clean. A tad chillier than yesterday, but clearly tolerable. I spoke with my son Max before I drove off. Today is his birthday. He's 19
years old. It dawned on me and my wife this morning, that this is the first birthday with him not being here. It feels strange for sure.

Though, it's hardly like what some other families have endured. Max is in College. While other kids his age are fighting in the war. We are lucky for sure. But we are also thankful and grateful that other kids fighting in the war, are making that sacrifice for all of us back home. My son can play football, because someone else's sons are fighting our enemies who want to destroy us all.

My wife and I can rest easy, knowing that our worries pale in comparison to other parents who have to live in constant fear of their children in the war. We thank them all for their daily sacrifices.

(Above) Max Vincent Fatello- Safety Endicott College. 19yrs old. Sept 14, 2010.

(Above) Ralph-Grunt, USMC . 19 years old. September 1970.

When I was 19 years old, I was in a whole different situation. I'm sure my parents were worried sick about me. It must of been hard for them. Like I'm sure it's hard for those parents today, who have children 18 and 19 years old fighting in the war. I say a prayer each night, praying for them all to return safely to their loved ones.

I rode three waves today. I snapped off one salute on my first wave for Molly. I was really getting a feeling of melancholy out there in the water this morning. I missed my parents today. For some reason, I woke up thinking about them. They never lived long enough to see Max go off to college and play football. Diabetes and cancer cut them both down before their time.

Life can be so sad at times. But it can also be so happy and beautiful. I know in my heart, that Tomorrow is going to be a better day. I know this.

Happy Birthday Mackey V...we love you.

That's 51, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


September 15th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 52
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

If my mind's eye was a camera I would of had some beautiful photos this morning.
The colors at the ocean's edge were so vivid. So green and blue and frothy white. At one point, I saw a Gull fly by this mini barrel and in my mind, I snapped the photo.
If I had a camera I'm sure I would of gotten that shot.

And I would of sent it off to Brian Nevins first. Cuz I know, he loves the minis.

Instead I just pretended to take photos in my digital brain. I wonder if our brains are like hard drives? You know, everything we see in our lives, is stored in there somewhere. That might be where dreams come from. Our brain's hard drives. With back up drives way in the back. When we sleep, some of those images dislodge and enter into our mind's screening room. Hence the dreams. I wonder...

I guess some of you are thinking I'm on medication or something. Nah...I have always had an active imagination. Always. But I bet when we all pass from this earth, we will find out, that some of this stuff could be true. Am I right Lil Miss Molly? Damn straight I am. What I saw today was through the eyes of a child playing on the beach. If you saw the ocean this morning, you know what I'm talking about.

If you didn't...well, use your imagination.

The water was warm this morning. But that is going to change. That wind keeps blowing out of the west, and we will be facing some chilly water temps by the weekend. I only caught one wave, but rode it for about 30 yards. More than enough to fill my quota. I would of stayed out longer just to look at the pretty minis, but I have too much to do. I rode Big Black on that one wave.

Hand salute! Order arms! One N Done.

It was nice knowing you Laurence Maroney. Good luck in Denver (nope.) Looking forward to meeting IGOR this weekend..."IT"S ALIVE!!!!"

That's 52, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 16th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 53
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was one of those days, that make living here in New England all worth while. It was almost a mirror of yesterday's beach scenes. I shared this one peak today with a couple of Sea Ducks. They were the funniest birds. They took turns diving for food. Every now and then, they'd look over at me, but were never concerned with my presence. It was just me and those two ducks in the water this morning.

The water was still warm this morning. And it was still crystal clear. The sand was white and clean, and it just felt good walking on it. There's something about this time of year. The end of Summer with the approaching Autumn. It's no secret that these next three months are my favorite. September, October, and November.
It's why I stayed here in New England. When people have asked me over the years 'why do I live here if I love surfing so much?' I always think of this time of the year.

I love Indian Summer and Early Fall in New England. I always have. I always will.

In spite of the beautiful beach scenes today, it's a work day. So it was another One N Done. I ran into a gaggle of friends up on the Wall. Jacko, John Boy, Erica, and Brian Kelly. It's always entertaining to hear Jacko and Johnny go into their spontaneous routine. Even if I am the brunt of some of their jokes. Good thing I have thick skin.

Still no sign of IGOR...but we know he's coming this weekend..."IT"S ALIVE!!!!"

That's 53, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 17th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 54
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I guess I was the first one to surf the beginning of Hurricane IGOR here in New Hampshire. The long lines and long interval between the sets were a sure sign of a building swell. The other significant change from the last couple of days, is the water temp. It got a little chillier overnight.

I would call the set waves today waist to chest high. I'm sure it will get bigger throughout the day. But for now, that's the early rumblings of IGOR. And really? What the hell kind of a name is that? Igor? Do any of you know an Igor? Seriously. Do you know someone named Igor? Who the hell comes up with these names?

How about Hurricane Molly? Or Hurricane Eva? Or for that matter, Hurricane Ralph!

But Igor?...my apologies to all the Igors reading this blog.

The rain today was a mild reminder of the kind of weather I'll be facing in a few short months. My tan is fading as I type this. I ran into Dave Cropper this morning as he was assessing the surf. No doubt for his surf report. He thought the same thing as me. The long lines are the beginning of IGOR. "You'll have some fun ones out there today Ralph." Maybe, if I didn't have a million things to do. Still, I ended up catching a few, and rode one for a long while before saluting Molly and stepping off onto the barren sand. Looking back, the footprints in the sand were made by me. I was alone.

That's 54, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 18th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 55
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

My wife and I have been together for 27 years. Last night we both had similar dreams. And they both involved the ocean, and big waves, and taking photos. Is that weird? Maybe. Except we have also found ourselves saying the exact line, at the exact time as of late. For instance, we were driving out to Vermont recently to see our son play Football in the Shrine bowl, when some idiot passed us going at least 100mph, we both simultaneously said:

"Whoa big fella!" We laughed at ourselves...but remarked at the odds of that happening. It's not like we say that line all the time..

Coincidence? Maybe. Maybe not.

The surf from Hurricane IGOR is starting to grow...it's chest high and slightly bigger on the sets. I should of used my shortboard today, but ended up using Big Black. I damn near killed myself on the thumping shorebreak. I ate it so bad I didn't know which way was up on one wave. *Note to self. Do not surf on a Longboard when the surf is dumping on the inside shorebreak.

I got my wave(s) and saluted my angels (Molly, my mother etc etc). I'll be going back out later to surf IGOR with my son Max. If I can get him off the freaking couch!

That's 55, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 19th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 56
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The swell is starting to fill in. IGOR is double overhead in RI. That means tomorrow it will be overhead here and into Tuesday. There were some overhead sets today. I surfed the Wall for a few hours this afternoon. The water is still warm, and I rode my shortboard. It was fun.

(Above) I shot this afternoon at the Wall. It's starting to get bigger.

(Above) I shot this in front of Tony's house at half time.

After we all surfed, a bunch of us went over to Tony's house to watch the Patriots game. It was a great first half. And like last week, the defense in the 2nd half was terrible. That coupled with some awful play calling, where Brady never once threw the ball to Wes Welka the entire 2nd half. The result was...we lost to the dreaded JETS. Are you freaking kidding me????

Why do I let this team mess me up? Why God?

After the game, we sat out on the front porch and watched the surf in the darkness. The Coast Guard and Police boats were out in the water with search boats patrolling the waters out in front where we all surf. They were either looking for a lost surfer, or a lost boater, or Wes Welka from the Patriots.

Tomorrow IGOR .will show up, and I will be able to finally shout out- "IT"S ALIVE!!!!"

That's 56, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 20th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 57
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I knew before I opened my eyes this morning, that today was going to be bigger and better than the day before. And it was. I went to a spot that I knew would be semi protected by the wind. And it was. The waves were lined up and it looked to be a solid 6-8' and this is still not the peak of the swell. It's coming still. But for now, this spot will do. I caught a decent first wave and had to share it with some guy who never saw me. But I never said a word. I was not going to start this session being uptight.

(Above) It's bigger than it looks Monday September 20th, 2010. Photo By RALPH

It's a good thing too, because my next wave was one of the best of the day.

Some guy named Chris said it was the best wave he'd seen all morning and the best ride. I wouldn't question the best wave part, but the best ride? I'm not so sure about that. My last wave of the session was my personal best. I was slotted for the longest time and fired off a salute that lasted as long as the section itself. Which was surprisingly long.

On the beach I ran into an old friend who I have not seen in 20-30 years. Gary Congley. He had been living in Maui each winter for the last 8 years. He's a SUP rider. Before that, he was a Wind Surfer...but he loves the ocean. So we have something in still in common. Gary used to be in bands back in the mid 60's. He was always a good guy, and I was happy to see him again after all this time and learn that he's still living the ocean lifestyle. Even if I don't SUP.

(Above) Gary Congley and me. Monday September 20th, 2010. Photo By Bill Morrissey

He told me his Mom died of cancer recently. I told him about my mom and then I told him about Molly. We hugged and said goodbye. But something tells me I'll be seeing Gary again. Sooner, rather than later this time.

That's 57, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 21st, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 58
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

OK it's no secret that I am no Spring Chicken. I've been around the block a few times. Especially in Surfing. And you would think, that in 46 years of me surfing, that I would have experienced all there is to surfing here in New England. Well, guess what? This morning I had two things happen to me that I don't ever recall happening before.

I got sand in my teeth. Can you freaking believe that? Sand in my teeth?

How the hell did that happen? Well for starters, it can't be good. I was out taking water shots after surfing for a couple of hours at the Wall. IGOR was still pulsing and the Wall was going off. I wanted a Brian Nevins type water shot. I never got one. But I did manage to snap a couple of fun looking barrels. But I paid dearly for them. After going over the falls on one wave I came up with sand in my teeth. I guess I was screaming under there or something.

The second thing that happened was I had a wave hit me in both eyes!

The lip of the wave hit me so hard in the eyeballs, that I felt the water rush in under my eyelids. Ever had that happen before? I don't recall it in my life. So that's two odd things that happened out in 4-6' surf today. Everything else was great. I surfed with a handful of friends and we scored some great waves. Oh Molly I gave you your salute on my second wave. In fact, I know I saluted throughout the day. It was that good.

Here are a few from today.

(Above) Drive right thru...Tuesday September 21st, 2010. Photo By RALPH

(Above) That's me on my first right of the day. Tuesday, September 21st, 2010.
Photo By Ed O'Connell

(Above) Me in mid-salute on my first left of the day. Tuesday September 21st, 2010.
Photo By Ed O'Connell

It was nice meeting you IGOR...got any more like you at home? Send em along.

That's 58, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


September 22nd, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 59
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

What a difference a day makes. IGOR has left the building. The remaining dribble
was easily enough to get my "Catch A Wave For Molly" this morning. But not enough to keep me hanging around for more. It was another "One and Done" day.

I saw my buddy Adam Coates this morning. He just got back from visiting his mom who had some major surgery. Welcome home Adam, I hope your Mom recovers with little or no discomfort. Sorry to hear about the passing of your Mom's brother. I'll say
a prayer for both.

Here's a couple of pics from yesterday that our old friend John Carden shot. It was good to see Johnny both behind the lens, and out in the water. That was one hell of
a session. I know I won't forget those waves for a while.

(Above) IGOR was very good to us. I'm gonna miss that dude. Tuesday September 21st, 2010. Photo By John Carden

(Above) A salute for Molly. Hurricane IGOR, Tuesday September 21st, 2010.
Photo By John Carden

I heard there's more surf coming this weekend. I'll be here, I'm not going anywhere for the next 306 days...

That's 59, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 23rd, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 60
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I felt guilty today not getting my hair wet. Hell, I barely got wet period. The surf was small. Maybe 1-2' and perfectly glassy. I stood on the beach and looked around. I was alone. Not a single soul on the beach. I saw the wave I wanted and hopped on Big Black and paddled out. I swung the big 9'0 around and with a slight hand paddle, caught the wave, and glided into this cute glassy right. I saluted Molly, and literally stepped off onto the sand and walked away.

I was for the most part, dry as a bone. I could of trunked it.

I passed on picking up some sea glass, because sea glass comes from broken bottles.
I can't really complain about broken glass on the beach, and then turn around and collect sea glass. That's being a hypocrite. There's a pretty green piece of sea glass
at 10th street if you want it...

That's 60, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 24th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 61
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The wet sand felt chilly on the bottom of my feet this morning. But it was not nearly cold enough to warrant any rubber on my feet. Too early for that. I'm thinking maybe in a couple of weeks, my hands and feet will be under rubber until next May. Right now, it's still warm enough. We've been truly blessed, most of September, the water temps have been exceptionally warm. I have to crack up at people donning boots, gloves, and the occasional hood.

I'm sorry you wooses, it's just not that cold.

Cold is coming. But not today, or anytime in the last few months. This has been one of the best summers ever. The weather was perfect. The surf has been fun, and the water temps, damn near tropical. If you've been wearing boots and gloves, and a damn hoodie these last few weeks, then you need to look at yourself in the mirror, and call yourself, exactly what you are.

A wimp. A total wimp. A woose. A woosey boy, or woosey girl...Rubber Dubber Doo!

Oh you want to know about the surf today? There was only a disorganized 1' slop. But I got one and rode it for 30 yards. I saluted and then "Elvis" left the building.

That's 61, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 25th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 62
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I'm not sure how old his kids are, but I know they are as stoked as any Grom I have ever met. Little Weiland and Elliot Anderson were out in the small 1' surf this morning as I walked down the beach and paddled out. Their dad Jon was watching them both with instinctual eyes. He's a single dad raising these two boys and he's doing a great job.

I love those kids. They are so happy and so polite. And you have to think it comes from their pop. They fit right into the whole surf community here and their enthusiasm is contagious. I waved at all three of them and I caught this tiny little left and rode right toward's them . I snapped off a salute and then stepped off in front of Jon.

I watched the boys catch these little waves and work them with their little Grom moves. Someday they will be surfing the real deal waves.

And that day will be here before you know it.

We talked about the chilly water. And it is getting chilly. I may have been off by a week in my blog yesterday. I think rubber on the feet and hands is coming quicker than I had anticipated. Damn...I miss summer.

That's 62, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 26th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 63
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The water is clearly getting colder. I might be in boots and gloves sooner than later. Oh well, it's not like I didn't know it was coming. I'm going to try and go without boots and gloves until after the first of October. I got my wave this morning before the wind came up. And that wind is a favorable wind for a little swell tomorrow. But we'll see.
The wave today was a short little right. Short as in height. Though I did go at least 20 feet. I saluted, and once again, stepped off onto the sand, and walked away.

OK so check this out. Last night my wife and I were watching a movie (Robin Hood 500) and around 11:30PM, I felt the house start to shake. At first I thought it was a truck going down my street. But quickly realized that it was an Earthquake. Granted, it was not the kind of tremor you guys in California feel every other day. But it was enough to get my attention, and the cat's. My wife and our dog slept through it.

Turns out, a quake did occur west of Concord. I don't know, I thought it was cool.

It's not everyday that we get Earthquakes here in New Hampshire. If it had happened out to sea, we would of got a swell. Instead, we got the house a rocking. "Don't Bother Knocking cuz the House is a Rocking!"

That's 63, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 27th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 64
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The surf is coming up. It's a solid 3' with bigger sets. The water is still plenty warm enough. I'm wearing an old 3mil suit with NO boots or gloves. I know some of you wimps can't believe that, but it's true. You don't need boots or gloves yet.

I don't want to toot my own horn here but, I paddled out through a decent sized set and caught a wave on the outside, and rode it all the way in. I saluted and stepped off onto the wet sand, and walked away. And check this out...I never got my hair wet. Actually, I did get it wet from the misty rain. But other than that, I was like freaking Batman out there. Paddling through lumpy, bumpy sections. My timing was perfect. I ended up getting a neat little right. I rode that wave for a long way. I'm really getting Big Black dialed in. I love that board.

So...tomorrow is 65 days...I know it does not mean much to some of you, but to me personally, it's a minor milestone. I can't wait to have that behind me.

That's 64, I'll be back tomorrow

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 28th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 65
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I ran into my old friend Duffy McCarthy this morning. "Guess what day this is Duffy?" He looked at me..."I don't know. What day is it?" "It's Day 65!" Duffy looks surprised and says..."Wow your 65 today?" "No man, it's Day 65 of my Catch a Wave For Molly
365 consecutive Days of Surfing." Duffy laughs saying..."I was going to say, I didn't think you were 65."

Thanks Duffy. I don't know if that is supposed to make me feel any better. But thanks.

The surf never did come together. Unless of course, it came up last night and I just didn't see it. That's possible. It was however glassy, and it was easily waist high. Bigger on the sets. But not much. The sun was trying to poke through the heavy cloud cover. But the air was steamy and humid. Not exactly my favorite type of weather. I hate that hot, humid, wet feeling. Reminds me of days in Southeast Asia.

I prefer the crisp, clean, offshore days of Fall.

I watched a flight of Cormorants heading south. Won't be long now. The drops in both air and water temps. The water temp today was still warm. NO boots required. In fact, if the sun was out this morning, I would of trunked it. And I would of been comfortable.

I paddled out and sat on Big Black for a couple of minutes, when I spot the wave I want. It's a left. There's a nice shoulder to it, and I angle into the wave. I grab a rail and pigdog my way through a section. I let go of the rail, and stand up and salute. I step off and walk away. As I'm walking up the sand, I realize that my hair is not only still dry, but it's perfect. "You seeing this Molly?" I say out loud smiling.

That's 65, only 300 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

September 29th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 66
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I walked across virgin white sand this morning at 18th Street. I bring this up because, typically I am scrambling over rocks at the Wall. The surf was small, only waist high and the wind was out of the SW. But I just knew the water was warm. In fact, I not only did NOT wear boots and gloves, I wore a 2mil suit. It was that warm.

I do not believe I will don the 4/3 until November. I know this makes most of you wooses cringe. But hey, it's not that cold. Suck it up. This is New England.

And another thing, I don't want to sound like a buffoon bragging here but....OK so I do a little. But today, I did not get my hair wet again. Come on people! I'm like freaking Spiderman out there. I'm Spidey! That's 3 days in a row, where I was able to slip out and catch a wave, with out getting my upper torso wet. I know that's not that big of a deal. But when you have to slip into a wet wetsuit day after day, trust me, it's a big deal to have your suit be semi dry.

I'm doing my part, by staying semi dry.

I caught a nice long right again. Hand Salute for Molly and I was done. Walking back up to the stairs, I noticed a bunch of children's handwriting on the wall.
One said "Happy Birthday Molly." And another just said "Molly". 18th street is where we had the The Molly This past August 22nd. I smiled as I walked past the writings.

That's 66, only 299 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


September 30th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 67
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Man was it ever foggy out there today. I mean, I couldn't tell how big the surf was from the Wall. Turns out it wasn't much bigger than the day before. But plenty big enough for me to accomplish my goal. I paddled out today, on this last day of September thinking that I would do what I have done the last 3 days.

You know, keeping my hair dry. I was giddy thinking about it.

I reached the outside, of what I thought was the outside in the fog, and sat up on my board and waited for a wave. Next thing you know a solid 3' wave pops up in front of me and bounces up to about 3.5'. Just big enough to break in front of me. Damn! I got my hair wet. I started laughing out there. Alone in the fog, just laughing out loud. I thought about how absurd it was for me to try and keep my hair dry. I mean, who the hell am I trying to impress here?

I caught another little right hander that lined up off the rock cropping, and rode it out of the fog. I saluted Lil Miss Molly as I saw the hazy images of people walking on the beach materialize into view. I stepped off Big Black and headed back to my vehicle. I said hello to a couple as I walked by. They smiled and looked back at me as I walked away. By tomorrow, the remnants of TS Nicole will be here. Bring it on.

That's 67, only 298 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph






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